Beautiful view of the bay in Castro in Puglia Italy
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Best 10 Day Itinerary For Puglia Italy (+ Maps & Tips) (2025)

Last Updated on August 16, 2025 by Nicole

My husband and I spent 10 days exploring Puglia, Italy in late September/early October. We toured medieval towns perched on hilltops with endless views of olive trees; had delicious meals overlooking the Adriatic Sea; biked along ancient roman aqueducts; and boated on turquoise waters into hidden sea caves. Everyday on this 10 day Italian road trip was astonishing, fun and breathtaking. Here is the best 10 day itinerary of Puglia in the fall.

Other Destinations

If after reading this article, you are still looking for travel inspiration for Europe in the fall, please review:

Best 10 Day Road Trip Itinerary For Puglia In September

Here is a quick snapshot of our 10 day Puglia road trip.

Day 1 – Land in Naples and drive to Polignano a mare

Day 2 – Go to Grotte di Castellana and Alberobello

Day 3 – E-bike self guided tour along Apulia Aqueduct

Day 4 – Go to Ostuni, Cisternino and take guided e-bike tour of Torre Guaceto Private Reserve

Day 5 – Drive to Otranto

Day 6 – Go to Lecce

Day 6 – Take boat tour in Corso

Day 7 – Go to Grottiaglie and drive to Matera

Day 8 – Explore Matera

Day 9 – Drive to Naples

Day 10 – Leave Italy

Below, I have organized this 10 day itinerary into mini itineraries. Usually, we spent between 2-4 days at one hotel exploring an area so you can easily see what we did and whether this would be too much or too little time for you. In addition, I highlight our accommodation and restaurants choices and what I thought of each.

Finally, I provide a list of recommendations and tips for how I would improve our time in each destination (if possible) and which pitfalls I would try and avoid (if any).

Weather

Average highs in September for Puglia is 80 °F with lows ranging from 60 °F to 65 °F. However, it is warmer in the first half of September than the second. Expect daytime temperatures to be around 80 °F. There is hardly any humidity and only a few days of rain, mostly towards the end of the month.

When we were in Puglia, we had consistent daytime temperatures of 80 °F with much cooler evenings. You will want a warm sweater or jacket in the evening for walks and if you want to eat dinner outside.

Day One – Day Three: POSEA – Polignano Sea Suites

best Puglia road trip
View of Polignano a Mare and the sea.

Polignano a Mare is a stunning coastal town located in the Apulia region of Italy, along the Adriatic Sea. It is renowned for its dramatic cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and picturesque historic center. The cliffs are dotted with rocky coves and small beaches, ideal for swimming and sunbathing. Its medieval historic center features narrow cobblestone streets, whitewashed buildings, and beautiful balconies adorned with flowers.

Where did we stay?

We spent 2 nights at POSEA – Polignano Sea Suites, a small boutique hotel perched on top of a cliff in the old town with views of Cala Ponte, the famous beach. We were in the center of the action within easy reach to countless restaurants and fantastic viewpoints.

Day 1 – Naples and Polignano a Mare

Morning

We flew into Naples, picked up our rental car, and drove 3 hours to Polignano a Mare. The drive was uneventful, mostly on highways (some of which were toll roads). There were lots of pretty views along the way.

We stopped for lunch at one of the snack bars in a gas station along the highway. It offered cheap yet delicious pizza and paninis, which we thoroughly and quickly enjoyed.

Afternoon

We checked into our hotel and then, spent the late afternoon wandering the old town.

View of beach and our hotel in Polignano a Mare on 10 day trip to Puglia Italy
View of beach and our hotel in Polignano a Mare

Tips And Recommendations

  • Make sure you have an International Driver’s License. The car rental company refused to rent to us the car that we booked because we did not have an International Driver’s License notwithstanding we rented a car in Italy the year before without one. We ended up having to rent a rental car from another rental agency who did not have this requirement at a significantly higher price.
  • An International Driver’s License is easy to get online so I would highly recommend getting one before you leave. Make sure you give yourself enough time before your departure to get a hard copy delivered to you in the mail. This rental company would not accept anything but a hard copy of the license.
  • From the airport, we were able to effortlessly leave Naples, by highway, without having to enter the city.
  • I would avoid renting a car and spending anytime in Naples itself. We spent a day in Naples at the end of our trip AFTER we dropped off our rental car. The driving, even in the back seat of a taxi and after 10 days self driving in Italy, was still absolutely crazy in Naples.
  • One of the highways that we took from Naples to Polignano a Mare was a toll road. Make sure you enter the correct lane where you can pick up a ticket before entering this highway. Do not enter the lane for pass holders as you will not be issued a ticket and you will be charged the full cost of the toll road regardless of where you entered or exited it. (I speak from experience!)
  • The old town in Polignano a Mare is car free. Accordingly, you will have to park elsewhere. Our hotel offered parking about 25 minutes away. It cost 20€ and it included one return transfer to and from the parking lot to the hotel by way of golf cart. I did notice free street parking after we committed to the pay parking.
  • Our hotel didn’t offer its own breakfast notwithstanding breakfast was included in the cost. Instead, we had complimentary breakfast at Martinulli, a bakery and gelato store a few minute’s walk away (and with locations all over southern Italy). We were able to eat whatever we wanted and as much as we wanted. I am not going to lie – this was a lot of fun. However, there isn’t anything healthy or savoury to eat so after our first day, I wasn’t as keen.
  • I liked Polignano a Mare. It was very, very beautiful. However, unsurprisingly, it was super touristy. The whole town is just a tourist town. I would suggesting visiting for a day, or at most, stay for a night, but I would not remain any longer. There are so many more fabulous spots in Puglia to enjoy that offer amazing hotels, restaurants, or beaches, and also let you have a more authentic experience. If I could do it again, I would have only visited and stayed elsewhere.

Day 2 – Grotte Di Castellana and Alberobello

Morning

This morning we drove 25 minutes to Grotte Di Castellana. The Castellana Caves are an intricate system of underground caverns that offer breathtaking and unique limestone formations, including stalactites and stalagmites. They extend 11,000 feet (3348 meters) in length and reach a depth of 400 feet (122 meters) from the surface. They are one of Europe’s longest karst caves.

You must take a guided tour to explore the caves. There are two possible routes: the first one is 0.5 miles (1 km long) and lasts 50 minutes; the second one is 1.8 miles (3 km) long and lasts almost two hours, after which you will reach the stunning White Cave.

We took the long tour and very much enjoyed exploring these stunning caves.

Grotte Di Castellana on our 10 day vacation to Puglia in Italy
Grotte Di Castellana

Afternoon

We drove 20 minutes from Grotte Di Castellana to Alberobello, where we had lunch and joined a walking tour.

Alberobello, a UNESCO World Heritage site is famous for its unique trulli — traditional stone houses with conical roofs, create a fairy-tale landscape with spectacular views. The town offers a pretty atmosphere with narrow streets, artisanal shops, and cozy cafes. Strolling through the town feels like stepping back in time.

We had a delicious lunch at Il Lamione Del Conte Pizzeria. It was a little bit removed from the main plaza where the majority of the trulli were located and it was very relaxing.

The walking tour was very good. I especially liked that our guide took us to less visited areas of town where we could appreciate the trullis and the beautiful cobblestone streets without jostling with the crowds.

Trulli in Alberobello on our 10 day holiday in Puglia italy
Alberobello
Exploring Trulli in Alberobello on our 10 day adventure in Puglia italy
Trulli in Alberobello
Exploring Trulli in Alberobello on our 10 day adventure in Puglia italy

Dinner

We returned to Polignano A Mare and had dinner at Maruso. This was a high end restaurant offering amazing food. I had the gnocchi with saffron sauce with shrimp and it was fantastic.

However, lots of items on the menu were offered in hectograms (you paid by how much you ordered). I found this confusing, so avoided ordering a lot of items because of this.

Tips and Recommendations

  • Grotte Di Castellana was very much worth visiting, although there were issues. We started our visit in a group and slowly made our way through the cave systems with the guide. It was very beautiful and quiet. However, once you reach the White Caves (the end), you have to turn around and retrace your steps. The way the site managed this was to fill entire chambers and walking paths leading up to the White Cave with dozens and dozens of people from several different tour groups. We stood for 30 minutes waiting for the people to arrive. It was VERY claustrophobic, no longer quiet or enjoyable and a waste of time.
  • There are lots of stairs and slippery sections in the caves. If you have mobility issues, this may be a difficult tour.
  • In high season, make sure you purchase tickets online in advance.
  • Alberobello was also well worth the visit. However, this town was VERY touristy and absolutely packed with people. Consider taking a tour so you will be shown the less touristy sections of town so you can appreciate some of the trullis in peace. I would avoid spending anymore than a half day here. I would definitely not spend a night.

Day Three – Day Five: Valle d’Itria

Where did we stay?

We stayed 2 nights at Masseria Cervarolo, a beautiful sprawling hotel located in the Valle d’Itria countryside, not far from Ostuni. Masseria translates to “farmhouse” or “country estate”.

The restaurant at Masseria Cervarolo in Puglia on our 10 day italian road trip
The restaurant at Masseria Cervarolo

Day 3 – Masseria Cervarolo and Apulian Aqueduct Cycle Path

Morning

We drove just under an hour to Masseria Cervarolo, a beautiful sprawling hotel located in the countryside for our 2 night stay. Masseria translates to “farmhouse” or “country estate”.

We had arranged with the hotel in advance to rent e-bikes and bike along part of the Apulian Aqueduct Cycle Path. This was an ancient aqueduct system that was constructed to transport water to various towns and cities in the region but has since been paved and made into a walking and bike path.

We arrived before check-in, dropped off our suitcases at the hotel, drove 20 minutes to one of the entry points to the path and collected our e-bikes.

Over 2 hours, we biked 17 miles (28 km) on mostly flat surfaces, passing by farms, olive groves, and occasionally crossing trestle bridges with pretty views. We barely saw another person, and savoured this time in quiet and nature.

Biking along the Apulian Aqueduct Cycle Path in Puglia in Italy
Biking along the Apulian Aqueduct Cycle Path
Views along the Apulian Aqueduct Cycle Path in Puglia in Italy
Views along the Apulian Aqueduct Cycle Path

Afternoon

We lounged by the stunning pool at our hotel, ate a fabulous lunch, and of course, napped in our gorgeous room.

The beautiful pool at Masseria Cervarolo in Puglia Italy
The beautiful pool at Masseria Cervarolo

Dinner

We opted to eat at the hotel restaurant to try their highly touted 6 course tasting menu. It was a very disappointing meal.

The menu changes daily and the concept is for the chef to reinvent traditional Puglian cuisine into modern food.

Unfortunately for us, the food was almost inedible. There was absolutely no choice and when we clearly did not enjoy the food, there was no offer of anything else. It was very expensive and we left hungry.

The hotel did listen to our criticisms, apologized and gave us 50% off the meal.

If you wish to try this, I would examine the menu closely and decide whether everything on it sounds appetizing before signing up. Even then, you need to make a judgement about the cost and the value of the experience.

Day 4 – Ostuni, Torre Guaceto and Cisternino

Morning

We drove 15 minutes to Ostuni, known as “The White City”. Famous for its very narrow streets, the town has beautiful medieval buildings and offers breathtaking views from ancient walls which still surround the historical center.

The Gothic Cathedral sits at one of the highest points in the town. It is surrounded and protected by the houses of the old quarter. You reach it by walking up the meandering road from the Piazza Liberta, passing by charming shops, restaurants and bars.

Ostuni in Puglia Italy on our Italian holiday
One of the beautiful white Gothic buildings in Ostuni
Wandering the cobblestone paths on our way to lunch in Ostuni
Wandering the cobblestone paths on our way to lunch in Ostuni
Exploring the stores in Ostuni on 10 day Italian trip
Strolling by stores in Ostuni

We easily found free street parking and wandered around for about an hour. The town is very pretty but also, very crowded. We didn’t book a tour.

We ate lunch on a shady patio at Taverna Della Gelosia just below the Cathedral at Taverna del Gelosia and it was delicious.

Afternoon

After lunch, we drove to Torre Guaceto and took a private e-bike tour in the park.

Torre Guaceto is a World Wildlife Fund Nature Reserve and protected marine area on the Adriatic coast. It is known for its biodiversity and diverse habitats, including wetlands, marshes, and dunes. It is characterized by a coastline with small coves, sandy beaches, and rocky formations. 

The name originates from the old sighting tower that is part of the coastal sighting towers built in 16th Century to protect against potential marine attacks. 

Over 3 hours, we biked, explored the tower and learned about its’ history, swam in the Adriatic, learned about the vegetation, and spent time at the animal and marine hospital learning about its efforts, in particular with the marine turtles.

Biking in Torre Guaceto in Puglia in Italy
Biking in Torre Guaceto
The marine hospital in Torre Guaceto in Puglia in Italy
A recovering turtle at the marine hospital in Torre Guaceto

It was a lovely time in nature. We enjoyed the peace after the crowds in Ostuni.

Evening

We drove 11 minutes from our hotel to Cisternino for dinner.

I loved this pretty medieval town. It felt small and intimate. We wandered around the cobblestone paths, getting happily lost.

We had drinks outside in the main square at Bar Fod which also offered live music. We watched local families out for the night and kids on bicycles and scooters getting into mischief.

Dinner at Zio Pietro was especially cool and a favorite of mine for the food and unique experience.

Located just steps from the main square, you go to the butcher next door and choose meats and sausages. Then, the restaurant cooks them, and serves your choices along with grilled veggies and a baked potato. You can dine outside or in cool cave-like vaulted room.

Narrow cobblestone paths to delicious restaurants in Cisternino
Narrow cobblestone paths to delicious restaurants in Cisternino
One of several outdoor patios in Cisternino
One of several outdoor patios in Cisternino

Tips and Recommendations

  • Make sure that you set aside time to relax at the pool and enjoy the hotel and its grounds. It is beautiful, quiet and a lovely way to recharge after busy travel days.
  • The tasting menu is the only dinner option offered at the hotel. You can order from an a la carte menu from 12:00 pm to 6:00 pm. However, after that, if you choose to stay and eat at the hotel, you must have the tasting menu.
  • You can not walk to another restaurant from the hotel. However, you are only 10 minutes drive from Cisternino which has many great restaurant options.
  • You can take a guided bike tour of the Apulian Aqueduct if you wish to uncover hidden gems. However, it isn’t necessary if you only wish to bike along a well marked path with beautiful views.
  • Ostuni would be best if you could arrive first thing in the morning before the crowds.
  • There are both private and group e-bike tours for Torre Guaceto. I’d recommend taking a tour so you can see everything. However, you are able to spend the day exploring the park on your own, with or without a bike.

Day Five – Day Seven: Otranto

Where did we stay?

We stayed 3 nights at Masseria Longa Boutique Hotel. This beautiful hotel was my favorite on our trip to Puglia.

It was very modern with a huge luxurious room and our own private entrance (like a townhouse). There was a large private patio with outdoor seating and a gate that led straight to the enormous outdoor pool and beautiful grounds.

It was located about 5 minutes by car from the entrance to Otranto’s medieval town. It was quiet and relaxing, then easy to get to restaurants, shops and historical sites when we wanted.

View of the pool and grouonds at Masseria Longa
View of the pool and grouonds at Masseria Longa

Day 5 – Otranto

Morning

We drove 1.5 hours to Otranto and checked into our hotel.

Afternoon

We drove into town and had a delicious seafood salad and fried calamari and fries at Summer Fish, a restaurant just outside the walls with views of the Mediterranean Sea. Afterwards, we explored the town.

The beach and port outside the walls of Otranto in Puglia Italy
The beach and port outside the walls of Otranto
The entrance to and the walls of the the old city of Otranto
The entrance to and the walls of the the old city of Otranto
View of Otranto at night in Puglia Italy
View of the old town of Otranto at night in Puglia Italy

Otranto is very pretty, packed with medieval buildings, walls, churches, and fortresses, all nestled next to the beautiful blues of the Mediterranean Sea. There are beaches nearby and lots of fabulous restaurants along the water or inside its medieval walls.

However, an unexpected treat is that hidden deep within the ancient walls and buildings, there are some breathtaking finds, including ancient frescoes and mosaics that should not be missed.

First, the Otranto Cathedral was built in 1088 and stands today in beautiful condition. However, what makes this cathedral unique in a country with churches everywhere is the 12th-century floor mosaics. These are incredible and will leave you awestruck.

Otranto Cathedral
Otranto Cathedral
Some of the mosaics in Otranto Cathedral
Some of the mosaics in Otranto Cathedral

Second, there is the Church of St. Peter (Chiesa di San Pietro), a small basilica built on one of the highest hills in Otranto. The walls are covered with beautiful frescoes from the Byzantine period (6th – 11th centuries). It is absolutely mesmerizing seeing these original frescoes and the incredible state in which they still exist.

After exploring, we spent some time by the pool at our hotel in the late afternoon.

The frescos in Chiesa di San Pietro in Otranto
The frescos in Chiesa di San Pietro in Otranto

Evening

We returned to the town for dinner and shopping. We ate at Trattoria Pizzeria Bibbo, a pizza restaurant overlooking the bay and it was delicious!

Day 6 – Lecce

Morning and Afternoon

We spent the day exploring Lecce, my favorite city in Pulgia. Nicknamed “the Florence of the South”, the city is renowned for its exquisite Baroque architecture, built with the characteristic Lecce stone, a soft, light-colored limestone. 

The historic center is a maze of narrow streets and squares, with baroque churches and noble palaces, making it an open-air museum. 

Outside the walls of Lecce
Outside the walls of Lecce


A must-see is Piazza del Duomo, a square with the Lecce Cathedral and its bell tower. Another iconic landmark is the Basilica di Santa Croce, known for its elaborate Baroque facade. Lecce also features Roman ruins, including the Roman Amphitheatre, which is partially visible in Piazza Sant’Oronzo. 

Piazza del Duomo in Lecce in Puglia Italy
Piazza del Duomo in Lecce
Basilica di Santa Croce in Lecce on Italian road trip
Basilica di Santa Croce
Roman Amphitheatre in Lecce on Puglian trip
Roman Amphitheatre in Lecce

I booked a 2 hours walking tour of Lecce and it was exceptional. There is so much to see in Lecce and it would be easy to miss hidden gems without a guide. Accordingly, I would recommend making every effort to book a walking tour.

After the tour, we explored cobblestone streets, shopped and ate gelato.

Evening

We knew this was going to be a long day so we arranged to eat dinner at our hotel.

This is not something that you can do without giving prior notice. They offer a delicious complimentary breakfast and you can order light snacks around the pool. However, they do not offer regular dinner service.

This was definitely a treat. You pre-select your meal the day before and a “nonna” (an Italian grandma) grocery shops and makes everything fresh. The setting was informal but the food was sensational! We even had the pleasure of spending some time with our chef. As for price, it was no more expensive than eating at a local restaurant in town.

Dinner cooked by our Nonna at Masseria Longa
Dinner cooked by our Nonna at Masseria Longa

Day 7 – Castro

Morning and Afternoon

We drove 30 minutes to the coastal town of Castro and took a 2 hours private boat tour along the coast.

This was organized by the Tourist Information Center in Lecce and only cost $60 USD. It was a bare bones tour – our captain did not speak english so there wasn’t any commentary about the history of the area and we had to bring our own drinks and snacks – however it was beautiful, relaxing and well worth the price.

Castro is a gorgeous town with turquoise blue waters beckoning you to enjoy. The views from the boat were spectacular, in particular of the town. We also explored coves and caves along the coast.

Beautiful view of the bay in Castro in Puglia Italy
Beautiful view of the bay in Castro
Beautiful view of the bay in Castro in Puglia Italy
Exploring caves along the coast line from our boat
Exploring caves along the coast line from our boat
Beautiful views from our boat around Castro
Beautiful views from our boat
Beautiful views from our boat around Castro

After our boat tour, we ate lunch at a budget-friendly sandwich shop in town called L’Oasis Del Panino. The sandwiches were ridiculously inexpensive, huge and delicious. I would recommend picking up some either for the boat trip, a picnic, or to enjoy while sitting at their outdoor seating.

Sandwich from L’Oasis Del Panino in Castro
Sandwich from L’Oasis Del Panino

For the rest of the afternoon, we lounged at the hotel pool.

Evening

We returned to the old town of Otranto and found a small restaurant with outdoor seating. We had some cocktails and shared some appetizers. We finished off our day with gelato and some souvenir shopping.

Tips and Recommendations

  • If possible, I would allot a minimum of 3 nights to this area. This part of Puglia was my favorite. It had the perfect combination of beaches, beautiful cities and towns to explore with incredible historical finds, water activities, and authenticity. It doesn’t all have to be centered on Otranto although I loved the location and how close we were to everything.
  • Make sure that you set some time aside to sit by the hotel pool. It was beautiful and relaxing.
  • We did not take a guided walking tour of Otranto. However, you may want to do so. There were clearly set out sites of interest that we explored and read about on our own. However, I have a feeling that we missed interesting anecdotes and other less well-known sites that we would have seen on a locally-led guided tour.
  • Lecce is the only place we went to in Puglia that feels like it had a large and thriving local population living in the city, both around the tourist areas and elsewhere. It felt very authentic. I wished that we spent at least one night in Lecce to see how the city comes to life after dark and the tourists leave.
  • We had a difficult time booking a boat tour in and around Otranto on our own. The hotel tried to contact local tour operators on our behalf, and even they had a hard time booking us into one of the local tours. It was partly because it was very windy on the day that we wanted to go (this happens regularly), and we had waited until we arrived to book. However, the Tourist Information Center in Lecce advised us that it was normally less windy down the coast in Castro. They also directly contacted the boat company for us and without any prepayment, booked us on our boat tour. We paid cash upon checking in.

Day Eight – Day Ten: Matera

Matera is renowned for its ancient cave dwellings, or “Sassi,” which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site and considered one of the oldest continuously inhabited settlements in the world. 

The “Sassi” are the heart of Matera, comprising two main districts: Sasso Caveoso and Sasso Barisano, which are characterized by cave-like dwellings and traditional houses, respectively. The Sassi are also known for their numerous rupestrian churches, which are churches carved into the rock, often featuring intricate frescoes. 

A church in Matera

The caves were once used as homes, churches, and workshops, and offered a very difficult way of life. In 1968, the Sassis were abandoned in search of better living conditions. However, in 1986 the government started to modernize them which drew people back.

Today, it is a beautiful and thriving town with remarkable ancient buildings, churches and cathedrals that are astounding to see and explore.

Night time view of the Sassi in Matera
Night time view of the Sassi in Matera

Some very famous movies have been filmed in Matera, including the Passion of the Christ and the opening scene of the 2021 James Bond film, “No Time To Die”.

Where to Stay?

We stayed at Palazzo del Duca for 2 nights. This was a beautiful cave hotel situated in the “Civita” of Matera, the highest and noblest part of the Sassi, where noble families lived.

It was located only steps from Matera Cathedral and the pedestrian walking zone where countless bars and restaurants were located. It offered stunning views of the Sassi below, the valley and the cliffs. Breakfast was exceptional.

Breakfast in our cave hotel, Palazzo Del Duca, in Matera
Breakfast in our cave hotel, Palazzo Del Duca, in Matera

Day 8 – Grottiaglie and Matera

Morning

On our way to Matera, we stopped in Grottiaglie in late morning. This largely unassuming town is known as the “capital of ceramic pottery in Puglia,” and is famous for its traditional ceramics, particularly functional pottery like jars, pitchers, and pots, and ornamental pieces like the “Pumi” (ceramic flower buds). The town’s history is deeply intertwined with ceramics, with many workshops still located in caves.

Grottaglie’s ceramic tradition dates back to the Middle Ages. It has a dedicated “District of Ceramics” with numerous workshops, most still family run. You can easily explore dozens and dozens of studios along a main street and a few side streets.

If you love pottery, then this town is a dream. Make sure you allot a couple of hours to properly admire all the pottery.

One of the pottery studios in Grottiaglie in Puglia Italy
One of the pottery studios in Grottiaglie

Afternoon

We drove just over an hour to Matera and checked into our hotel, Palazzo del Duca. After settling in, we opted to go to the Cistern before heading out for drinks and dinner.

The Palombaro Lungo is Matera’s largest cistern, a giant underground water collection system located beneath Piazza Vittorio Veneto, built in stages from the 16th century, and capable of holding 5 million liters of water. This giant cistern, arguably as magnificent as a subterranean cathedral, is one of Matera’s great sights. Lying under the city’s main square with arches carved out of the existing rock, it is mind-boggling in its scale and ingenuity. It no longer supplies the water to the city.

The Cistern in Matera
The Cistern in Matera

Evening

We ate dinner at the Quarry, an upscale restaurant across from our hotel with jaw dropping views. The food and service were excellent and we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

The view of the Quarry from our hotel in Matera
The view of the Quarry from our hotel

Day 9 – Matera

We took the day exploring the Sassi and the pedestrian zone. We took a walking tour in the morning which explored caves, highlighted must-see churches and cathedrals, and learned about the impressive and interesting history of the town.

In the afternoon, we continued to explore the Sassi, touring Rupestrian churches and the Matera Cathedral that we learned about in the tour, but did not go into.

Matera on our 10 day Italian road trip

Some of the sites were absolutely extraordinary. The Crypt of the Original Sin (Sistine Chapel of rock churches) had astounding frescoes dating back from 8th and 9th Century. We weren’t able to take any photos inside. However, whatever you do, do not miss going inside to see them!

View of Sistine Chapel of rock churches in Matera
View of Sistine Chapel of rock churches in Matera

We had a fantastic lunch at Stano just outside of the Pedestrian Zone. This was absolutely delicious, offering modern twists on traditional food. It was also full of locals, one of the only restaurants that we found in and around the hotel where locals dined. It was a short 15 minute walk from our hotel.

Tips and Recommendations

  • Avoid Grottiaglie between 1:00 pm – 4:00 pm as almost all the stores close for lunch during this time.
  • We explored the old town after the pottery shops, and there really wasn’t anything to see. In addition, there was only one overrun restaurant open for lunch both in the pottery area and the old town. We sat for 30 minutes without getting a menu and ultimately left. I would plan to eat lunch in another town or city, or ask one of the store employees where they would recommend. We were clearly in the wrong place.
  • Only cars belonging to residents are allowed in the Sassi in Matera. Our hotel recommended paid parking in nearby parking garages and then, supplied the contact information of reliable taxi companies to take us to the hotel. After parking, we knew we were not far from the hotel so opted to walk with our luggage following Google maps. This was a huge mistake. The Sassi features narrow, winding cobblestone paths and roads that weave through the cave dwellings carved into the cliffs. Google maps took us on a wild goose chase leading us to the bottom of the Sassi then directing us to climb back up over a hundred stairs to finally reach our hotel. Once we realized what happened, we called a taxi to take us back up. In retrospect, notwithstanding the taxis are relatively expensive (they only offer flat rates), I would recommend ordering a taxi from the parking garage and not attempting to find your way to a hotel in the Sassi on your own.
  • The cistern only costs a few dollars to see and takes about 10 – 15 minutes to walk around and explore. It is worth it to do so.
  • A 2 night stay in Matera was a perfect amount of time. We felt that we saw everything and didn’t feel rushed.

Day Ten – Naples

We headed out early to drive back to Naples. We dropped off our bags at our hotel, returned the rental car to the airport, and then, took a taxi back to our hotel.

In the afternoon, we took the free hotel shuttle into downtown Naples where we planned to take a walking tour of the historical area, but cancelled when torrential rain showers began.

Where Did We Stay?

We decided to stay at the Gold Tower Lifestyle Hotel. We wanted a place that was near the airport, but also offered excellent access downtown (we had a super early flight the next day). We loved the free shuttle downtown and was able to take the subway back. The hotel was lovely and modern. The rooms were large and very comfortable.

The hotel repeatedly told us that they had a relationship with one of the taxi companies that would limit the cost of any rides, but none of the taxi drivers we took ever seemed to know about it or agreed to the rate, including the one that picked us up from the hotel. However, they had hourly free shuttles back and forth to the center of the Old Town in Naples, and the metro/train was only 15 minutes walk away.

Tips and Recommendations

  • Naples is definitely a large and gritty city that is largely lived in by Italians versus a city focused on tourists. In some respects, it has a New York feel to it. I liked the vibe, but it is very very different from anywhere else in Italy that we visited on this trip.
  • I would avoid spending time in it at the beginning of your trip. Instead, if you are interested in exploring Naples, I would wait until the end of your trip to Italy.
  • Whatever you do, DO NOT drive in Naples.

Last Word

Exploring Puglia in fall on a 10 day road trip was wonderful. The weather was warm and the sun shone everyday. We filled our days touring small medieval towns, biking in nature, lazing by the pool or having cocktails overlooking the sea, and enjoying sophisticated towns and cities offering magnificent ruins and delicious restaurants. Choose your hotels carefully and you can ensure that you will enjoy the hustle and bustle of towns and cities, with the opportunity to retreat to relaxing hotels and resorts.

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