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Kelimutu: A Breathtaking Indonesia Volcano And Its People.

Our view from our hotel room and patio
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When I was planning our three week trip to Indonesia with my family of 6 (13, 14, 16 and 20 year old children), I wanted to include at least one Indonesia volcano. Indonesia has more active volcanoes than any other country in the world. Currently, there are approximately 127 active ones, with many more dormant. When I researched the various options, Kelimutu rose to the top of my list.

 

Why This Indonesia Volcano?

  • I was fascinated to learn that Kelimutu has three different coloured lakes at its peak. In addition, they change colour throughout the year. The lakes sit in enormous craters that were formed from previous volcanic eruptions.

  • I liked that Kelimutu was located in an isolated and rural part of the island of Flores. In addition to exploring an Indonesia volcano, I also wanted my family to spend time in small villages learning more about local customs and traditions.  I was curious to see the countryside and the day to day life of the people.

 

Traditional village near Indonesia volcano
One of the traditional villages we visited during our stay on Flores.

 

 

Komodo dragons near Indonesia volcano
One of the Komodo dragons we met on our hike on Rinca Island near Flores.

  • Finally, I found Kelimutu Crater Lakes Ecolodge, near the Indonesia volcano, that offered comfortable western accommodation. Included in the price of our stay, was a full three day program exploring local villages and Kelimutu.  All of our meals were also included in the cost of our accommodation.

 

The Details

 

Kelimutu and the Indonesia Volcano
Views from our journey from Ende to Moni.

 

Ende

We were collected at Ende airport by the General Manager of the Lodge, two cars and two drivers. We loaded up the cars and started our two hour drive to the Lodge. Ende is the largest city on Flores. From a North American perspective, this was an interesting city. Apparently, there is approximately 60,000 people living there, but I’m not exactly sure where! We saw lots of one room homes on the side of the road (some in very bad condition) on little plots of land with roosters, chickens and dogs running wild. We saw a few one and two story buildings, with a couple of banks and stores, but no apartment buildings or anything like that. Truthfully, it felt more like a town than a city. However, after we left Ende, we understood.

 

farming near Indonesia volcano
Farming in Moni

 

 

The Countryside

Within minutes, we were on the outskirts of Ende and into the countryside. It was spectacularly beautiful. Everywhere we looked, there were hills and mountains that were covered in trees and lush greenery. In between mountains, we saw terraced rice paddy fields or other farming. Occasionally, we passed a group of small little ramshackle huts with kids running around outside, or a small run down shop selling bottles of gas, treats, and some household items. But, over two hours, that was pretty much it. In terms of population and infrastructure, this journey to the Indonesia volcano was isolated and sparsely populated. There was one road in and one road out. We spent most of our trip on a winding paved road cut out of the mountain with endless views. Thankfully, the road and its conditions were good.

 

Houses near the Indonesia waterfall
Houses along the main road from Ende to Moni

 

Kelimutu Crater Lakes Ecolodge

We eventually arrived in Moni, the village nestled below Kelimutu and where our lodge was located. The lodge was beautiful. The buildings were settled into the hills and seemed to be an extension of them. Everywhere we looked, we saw exotic flowers with brilliant colours . A lovely creek ran just below. Every night and every morning, we fell asleep and woke up to the sound of the creek.

 

Beautiful flowers below the Indonesia volcano

 

our hotel near Indonesia volcano

 

We had three large rooms in our own separate building with comfortable beds and a small patio out front. All meals were served outside in a separate building nearby. We chose what time to eat for every meal and each meal was freshly cooked for us.

 

our hotel near the Indonesia volcano
A two bedroom at our hotel

 

From what we saw during our time in Moni and around the Indonesia volcano, this hotel was the nicest by far. In fact, when we saw the poverty and harsh living conditions of the locals, we realized that we were very fortunate to be staying at this lodge.

However, it was not perfect. Depending on what kind of traveller you are, some of these might bother you. Others might read the “problems” and find it ridiculous that I am even mentioning them. For us, they were minor annoyances that we quickly forgot.  We soaked up the beauty of our surroundings and met many kind people who were excited to welcome us into their villages and their homes.

 

Concerns

Nevertheless, if you are interested in this Lodge, you should be aware that:

  • The Lodge did not have wifi.
  • There wasn’t any air conditioning
  • The bedrooms did not have ceiling fans.
  • It cooled down at night, but none of us were brave enough to sleep with the windows open. They did not have any screens on them. Mosquitos were not bad for most of the day, but they were around. There were also some ginormous unidentifiable (we think harmless…) bugs floating/crawling around that I had no interest waking up to in my bed. Accordingly, the windows stayed shut, and the rooms were a bit warm and stale at night.
  • Each bedroom had its own private bathroom but hot water was touch and go. We had to be quite strategic and organized about showers.
  • Food was plentiful, healthy and offered with lots of pride, but overall, was not a highlight of our stay. I think they did the best they could with the ingredients available, but it likely impacted the quality of the dishes.
  • We were not really consulted about meals. We often sat down and dishes appeared. In retrospect, I wish that we could have had some input. I hated how much food was wasted because they served too much food. On the flip side, I also ended up eating way too much food at many meals because I did not want to offend them.

 

Moni

After arriving and eating lunch, our guide took us to explore Moni. Compared to what we had seen on our road trip between Ende and Moni, this was a happening place. Along the main road, I saw a dozen or so one and two storey concrete buildings with modest restaurants and rooms to rent. However, it was still a fundamentally undeveloped and rural scene with green landscapes dominating most every direction.

We drove around 10 minutes from the Lodge along the main road, where we got out and walked down a path to a pretty waterfall called Muru Nda’o. Then, we had to cross two somewhat treacherous bridges to continue on the path. This was a little dicey! Thin tree trunks were bound together to form the bridges. There wasn’t any guard rails. The bridges were narrow, and chunks of wood were missing in certain spots. We kind of bounced as we walked over them – not the most reassuring feeling when there is nothing stopping you from toppling down 6m or 20 feet into the sharp rocks and water below!

 

The waterfall near the Indonesia waterfall

 

The waterfall near the Indonesia volcano
Descending to the waterfall

 

Crossing the bridge near the Indonesia waterfall
Mike very carefully crossing the first bridge.

 

Crossing the waterfall near the Indonesia volcano
Never look down!

 

Thankfully, we all did it. Not with a lot of grace or athletic finesse.  I am sure local children run over them blindfolded and would have laughed at how slowly and cautiously we crossed.

 

The Hidden Village

After we transversed the bridges, we followed a paved path that first took us back up to ground level. However, we were now deep within the jungle. After a few minutes, we came into a clearing and were surrounded by traditional farms.  We continued on the path, meeting children playing in the fields and farmers at work. Our guide identified various plants, and began telling us the history of Flores.

 

A family portrait below the Indonesia volcano
Taking a moment to celebrate crossing the bridges!

 

Kids playing under Indonesia volcano
Not sure what the game was but it included tying each other up

After 15 minutes, we arrived at a very poor settlement filled with small run-down houses, many without windows or doors. Most of the houses were without electricity, running water or any indoor plumbing. Barefoot children ran around and apart from the path, mud and dirt were everywhere. Nevertheless, the people smiled, welcomed us and permitted us to take their photos.

 

The village of Moni near Indonesia volcano
The village of Moni.

 

Hanging out near the Indonesia volcano
No running water or indoor plumbing, but an outdoor pool table?

 

Women outside their home near Indonesia Volcano
Some local ladies chatting outside a home.

 

Apparently, this was the traditional village of Moni. The guest houses and restaurants found on the main road just minutes away were solely for the benefit of the tourists. This was where the locals lived and raised their families.

 

Day One Done

By the end of our first day, our senses were overwhelmed. We were surrounded by truly spectacular scenery. Some of the greenest greens that I have ever seen. But, interspersed were squalid houses and poor locals living in very difficult circumstances. I found the contrasts unsettling.

Thankfully, over the next couple of days, we explored many more villages, and hiked to the peak of Kelimutu volcano at sunrise. These experiences unveiled a rich history of traditions and customs. Beautiful traditional homes and ceremonial huts were gently tucked into lush mountainsides. And of course, reaching the summit at Kelimutu and watching the sunrise was truly awe-inspiring and breathtaking. If you like to read more about our experiences in Kelimutu, please read my next blog Exploring the Untouched Beauty of Kelimutu Indonesia .

 

If you are interested in reading more about my adventures during our three week trip in Indonesia, here is a list of all the articles that I have written:

The Unbelievable Wonders of Komodo National Park In Indonesia;

Komodo Dragons and Pink Beaches: Just Another Day in Indonesia;

Exploring the Untouched Beauty of Kelimutu Indonesia

A Stunning Borneo Ecotour With Teens

Trekking For Orangutans in Indonesia

Indonesia: The Magic of Lightning Bugs In the Rainforest

Indonesia: The Phoenix Hotel Yogyakarta, Food and Fashion

A Mind Blowing 17 Day Indonesian Adventure With Teens

 

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Our family explored Kelimutu, an Indonesia volcano, in an isolated part of Flores. The volcano has three different coloured lakes at its peak. It was beautiful. We equally enjoyed exploring the surrounding villages, meeting the people, and learning about their customs and traditions. |#Ende #Asia #Flores, #Indonesia #volcano #Kelimutu, #KelimutuCraterLakesEcolodge,#child #kids #teens #KomodoNationalPark #Moni #Komodo #MuruNda’o #poverty #teen, #waterfall #Indonesiavolcano #family

While in Indonesia, our family explored the jungles of Moni, hiked to the top of an Indonesia volcano to watch the sun rise, and visited remote villages on Flores Island. We met chiefs of villages and were invited into ceremonial huts to learn about their customs and traditions. It was extraordinary. |Ende #Asia Flores, #Indonesia #volcano #Kelimutu, |Komodo National Park, Komodo, MuruNda’o, poverty, teen, waterfall, #familytravel #travel #travelwithteens

6 Comments

  • Indonesia is really beautiful. And you visited Flores. we ran out of time when we were in the area. #weekendwanderlust

  • This was quite an adventure. Hope you have other posts about this experience planned because I want to see more. I would not want to look down on those bridges. I would be petrified.

    • My son took the photos looking down from the bridge. I didn’t realize he had done that and they made me dizzy looking at them. I almost crawled across the bridge! Yes, lots more blogs are coming from our time in Indonesia. We had some pretty amazing and diverse experiences. Thanks for the comment!

  • You have definitely found the road less travelled. I have only been to Indonesia (Bali) once so I only got the tourist experience. The areas you saw on Flores seem much more authentic and untainted by modern civilization. I would not know where to begin exploring this island so the lodge’s 3-day programme sounds like an excellent choice.

    • We spent a few days in Bali as well. It seems that most flights to other parts of Indonesia seem to start or go through Bali. Bali was beautiful but as you say, very touristy. Still it has its role. We definitely appreciated a few days there when we first landed from North America and we were trying to recover from our flight.

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